The Palace of Versailles, The French Revolution,Marie Antoinette and her Secret Passage

One of the most magnificent places that I've ever been to is the Palace of Versailles in France. It is also a place which has mirrored the ups and the downs of the French history, particularly during the French Revolution also called The Revolution of 1789. This was the revolutionary movement that shook France between 1787 and 1799 and reached its first climax there in 1789.

Designated as a World Heritage site in the 'cultural' category in 1979, the Palace of Versailles was the principal residence of the French kings from the time of Louis XIV to Louis XVI. Embellished by several generations of architects, sculptors, decorators and landscape architects, it provided Europe with a model of the ideal royal residence for over a century.

The Palace of Versailles -Majestic grandeur unlike any other

This former home of French kings epitomizes royal elegance in the style of Old Europe. Versailles originated in 1631 as a humble hunting lodge for Louis XIII. But his son Louis XIV built the now familiar palace on the site outside Paris and moved the nation’s government and court to Versailles in 1682.

Let them eat cake" is the traditional translation of the French phrase "Qu'ils mangent de la brioche"  supposedly spoken by "a great princess" upon learning that the peasants had no bread. There is no real evidence that Queen Marie-Antoinette ever uttered this phrase but this is what tends to happen over a period of time.

Marie Antoinette with two of her children

Stunning interiors

    The Versailles gardens took 40 years to complete; Louis XIV valued them as much as the palace.

Versailles’ sprawling, stunning palace is well matched by the splendour of the gardens in which it is situated. On our first trip there last November on a cold wet and windy day, we had a superb opportunity to walk through this section and marvel at all that has been done to make this place look the way it does now.

It is believed that Marie-Antoinette enjoyed these grounds so much that she created her own private estate here, a collection of rural homes and buildings laid out along the lines of a Norman village. The queen sought privacy and escaped the pomp and hubbub of the palace court at her hamlet, which now draws crowds in its own right. The queen’s estate even operated as a working farm where peasants and livestock produced fresh product for the tables of the grand palace.

The Palace of Versailles truly offers visitors a chance to walk in the footsteps of royalty and visit intimate chambers, including the king’s grand apartments. But perhaps the most famous room at Versailles is the 'Grande Galerie' or the Hall of Mirrors, which was once haunted by courtiers playing politics or awaiting an audience with the monarch. This same room later witnessed one of the defining moments of 20th-century European history when the Treaty of Versailles, ending the First World War, was signed within its walls in June 1919.

One of these days, I plan to write another blog post on this very Hall of Mirrors, which in a word is just 'stunning'! 

The massive, magnificent bed in the King's chamberVersailles remained the epicenter of French royal power, home to government offices and courtiers alike, until 1789, when a hungry and agitated group of mostly female revolutionaries stormed the palace and essentially evicted Louis XVI and his queen, Marie-Antoinette. The mob sent the royal couple back to Paris on the first steps of a journey that led eventually to their beheadings.

This picture clicked by me shows you  the exact spot, a secret passage in their bedroom, from where Marie Antoinette is believed to have fled from after the mobs attacked the palace  gates then rushed past the palace guards looking for the King, the Queen and his family. It was clear, they had reached the end of their patience and all they wanted to do was to get rid of those who they perceived were those who they believed were responsible for this.

King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were eventually captured at the border due to the fact that they were impersonating peasants but were found to be travelling in a very fancy carriage. They were both returned to France where they were both beheaded. The executioner reported that the King died like a man and that Marie Antoinette was every bit a Queen when she met her fate.

My thoughts as I left this chamber- Much of what we know about Marie Antoinette is clouded by the judgement of many, many people. There was a time when she was clearly well loved by the population as was her husband but time has a way of changing and so it did- for Marie Antoinette, King Lous XVI and the French people.

And so much of it happened at this very Palace of Versailles...

Ruins That Fascinate and Intrigue- Between Nakhal and Rustaq , Oman

                                      

Have you ever come across something that really fascinates and intrigues you? Enough for you to wonder about it many, many days later? Well, its  happened to me quite a few times and this one was a few months ago.

It was on our return journey from Nakhal and we were very pleased with our successful day trip. Not really focusing on the surrounding areas as we exchanged notes about all that we had managed earlier that day, our attention was suddenly drawn to something on the other side of the road.

From a distance, it appeared to be a small castle, or a fort, but to the best of our knowledge, there really wasn’t anything documented on this stretch of the road. Rising out of the flat stretch of land,  and on what appeared to be a hillock was this very intriguing structure in hues of grey and  fawn, and if one's imagination could be stretched a bit,  then it was almost like looking at Roman ruins. 

A quick decision was taken and  we decided to check it out for ourselves.

Taking the next roundabout, we came back to where we had spotted it and realized that it was actually much further than what we’d first thought. Also that we’d have to drive off the main road and onto the dirt track, which would  take us close to this place. The next few minutes found us being bumped and shaken as our tough four wheel drive took us closer and closer towards this fascinating monument.

Alighting, we  found ourselves just off a small village, where a few sweet and shy giggly kids watched us from a safe distance. Walking towards it, we found ourselves more intrigued and excited with each step.

“Seeing is believing” – you only need to look at the accompanying photographs, to feel something of what we did.

We walked around and into it. It was a fascinating structure and at some point might well have been a fine house. Clicking all the pics we wanted and then some, we finally left, with the same thought- How and why did this place go to rack and ruin?

If any of you know out this place, please do let me know. It would be great to know some more about these fascinating ruins....

Chocolate, banana, raisin and nut muffins- a minor variation of the previous post

In my last post I talked about banana, raisin and nut muffins. 

Here is the chocolate version for those of you who like it better this way. 

Try it and I guarantee that you will have great fun in the process. Hopefully, the end result will be satisfying as well !

Chocolate, banana, raisin and nut muffins

Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour 

1 cup sugar 

1 teaspoon baking powder 

Half teaspoon salt

Cashew nuts chopped into bits 

20 raisins 

1/2 cup unsalted butter at room temperature 

2 eggs 

a dash of vanilla extract 

3 ripe bananas

4 Tablespoons good cocoa powder

All set to proceed

Method

Pre heat oven to  100 C and prepare the muffin cases by lightly greasing them from inside.

In a large bowl combine the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nuts. 

Combine the mashed bananas, eggs, melted butter, and vanilla in a large bowl.

Add the flour, baking powder, cocoa, sugar and blend into the banana mixture.

Spoon this batter into the muffin cases, leaving enough space for them to rise.

I managed 12 large muffins

Bake until muffins are  a nice chocolate brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. 

Once they are ready you can serve them topped with chocolate icing. Alternately, top with vanilla ice cream and honey or just sit back and enjoy one with a large mug of coffee..

Stratford on Avon, Shakespeare's cottage, Raksha Bandhan and one of my most memorable dinners

Today is 'Raksha Bandhan' or 'Rakhee' which is a very significant day for Indian brothers and sisters.The name 'Raksha Bandhan' suggests 'a bond of protection'. On this auspicious day, brothers make a promise to their sisters to protect them from all possible troubles and the sisters pray to God to protect their brother from evil. The ceremony involves sisters tying the silk thread called 'Rakhi' on their brother's wrist and in return brothers generally give them a  small and interesting present. 

My brother Navtej and myself have always shared a close bond and today when I was thinking about some significant moments in our lives this particular incident came to my mind as extremely memorable and so I've decided to write about it in some detail.

For that, I have to go back in time to an earlier visit to the UK where my brother is based.We were there for about a fortnight and high on the agenda was a trip to Stratford on Avon which is the birthplace of Shakespeare. It was a regular working day and since Navtej couldn't join us, we decided to make the train journey to Stratford. The plan was to spend the day out and get back by dinner. 

So off we went and caught the right train and reached Stratford. The weather had changed by then and soon we were dogged by intermittent rain which lasted through the day. But did that deter us in any way? Not in the least as we moved around as we were reasonably well prepared for the possibility of rain, any day and all day.

Standing outside Shakespeare's cottage, Stratford on Avon

The untouched interiors

Shakespeare's Birthplace in Warwickshire has been welcoming visitors for over 250 years. This is the house where William Shakespeare was born in 1564, grew up and wrote a lot. Shakespeare also spent the first five years of married life in this house with his new wife, Anne Hathaway. By 1592 he was in London working as an actor and a dramatist. Between 1590 and 1613, Shakespeare wrote at least 37 plays and collaborated on several more. Many of these plays were very successful both at court and in the public playhouses. In 1613, Shakespeare retired from theatre and returned to Stratford-upon-Avon. He died and was buried there in 1616.

For millions of Shakespeare enthusiasts worldwide, the house is a shrine. Inside it, one truly discovers the world that shaped the man and one can also find out what other famous writers thought when they visited here-Charles Dickens, John Keats, Walter Scott and Thomas Hardy. Close by is the enchanting cottage of his wife, Anne Hathaway, who is believed to have been a few years older to Shakespeare and came from a very well to do family.

Anne Hathaway's cottage

This is the original cottage where the young William Shakespeare courted her  and finally got her to agree to his marriage proposal.It is a thatched farmhouse with beautiful grounds and gardens, which overflow with fragrant blooms and traditional shrubs.The cottage is in Shottery, a hamlet within the parish of Stratford-upon-Avon. It was absolutely delightful to see many original items of family furniture, including the Hathaway Bed, crockery, cutlery and even some dresses and shoes that are believed to have been worn by her!

Walking around in the rain had finally taken its toll and despite all the wonderful things and places we had seen, by 5 pm when the place closed, we were all cold, tiredand  hungry.We stopped at a small tea shop and had a quick bite but when we reached the station, learnt to our dismay that the train to Worcester had just left and the next one would only come an hour later. By the time it did, we were exhausted and by the time we finally arrived in Worcester, even more so!

But every cloud does have a silver lining and this is the best part of that day. Navtej was home when we arrived  and as we entered, the aroma of a delicious 'Tandoori' chicken and 'Rotis' and 'Ma Ki Daal' was probably the most delightful thing that one could have hoped for! All he told us was to wash our hands and settle down to the delightful Indian meal that he had put together for that evening- needless to say that is exactly what we did and as my brother insisted on serving me with the 'chest ' piece( which is what my mother always does)I realized two things that day.

-The fact that Navtej had observed how my mother served me and had actually replicated the same in his own home..

-And the most important fact- that family really does mean a great deal... 

That memorable dinner

My quick and easy Spinach, Paneer, Cheese and Feta Quiche

All set up and ready

There are days when one just wants to have a quick, easy and delicious  meal without working too hard. This recipe of mine for an easy Spinach, Cheese and Feta Quiche  works well in exactly such a situation- this can also be adapted for different fillings and can be served either hot or cold.

My personal choice- Hot, straight out of the oven and accompanied by a generous serving of green salad.There you have it- A no fuss main course, or if you will a hearty supper!

Servings: 6 generous slices

Preparation  Time: 15 mins

Cooking Time: 45 mins

Ingredients

 1 - 9 inch refrigerated pie crust, fitted to a 9 inch  pie plate 

1 cup  regular Paneer  

1 cup  Feta  cheese

2 cups chopped fresh baby spinach, cooked for 5 mins 

Spring onions - 6 stalks.

Salt and pepper to taste 

3  large eggs 

6 cheese triangles 

Directions

Preheat the oven to 150 deg C.  Combine the eggs, cooked spinach, paneer, feta, spring onions, salt, and pepper in a bowl and gently stir.

Gently layer the mix at  the bottom of the pie crust. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes until the egg mixture is set. 

Cut into 6 wedges, serve and eat with a hearty green salad.

This same recipe can be adapted to an equally quick and easy chicken, bacon,  cheddar cheese,  potato , leek and celery version. 

Experiment, have fun in the kitchen-Try all the variations and you will be delighted with the ease with which you will be able to pull out quick dinners, lunches or hearty snacks!

Pastry Chef Mohammed Kessrrwani shows me how make a great French Mille-feuille

The friendly staff at Paul, MGM Muscat

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote my first two blog posts on Paul, Muscat. With Eid rapidly approaching, I  decided to write my third and final post on Paul where Pastry Chef Mohammed Kessrwani shows me how to make the best  Mille-feuille and hope you enjoy reading this one as well.Even better, if you decide to try this out as your very own 'Eid Special.'

Paul is a French chain of bakeries and café restaurants established in 1889 in the city of Croix, in Northern France by Charlemagne Mayot. Today, there are over 500 franchised Paul bakery/café restaurants in many countries worldwide, viz.France, Spain, Belgium and the United Kingdom,  among others.This year Paul came to Muscat and has rapidly proved to be a very welcome addition to the range of restaurants present here.

Having a sweet tooth and being fond of baking myself, I'd specially asked to meet the Pastry Chef and that was how I found myself in the kitchens of Paul Muscat at 0730 hours and when I entered, was surprised to see Chef Mohammed Kessrwani already hard at work! 

                                

                           Chef Mohammed Kessrwani is all smiles

Welcoming me and making sure I was wearing a cap to cover my hair, he positioned me where I could watch him clearly and had no objections to being photographed at his work station. My first impression was,'Gosh he looks so young!" ! And that was proved to be right when I learnt that he was 29 and had been working in Pastry for the last 14 years.

I shadowed Chef Mohammed for two days and am delighted with all that I got to see and learn. On the second morning, I was invited by the Chef to watch an exclusive session on how to make a  great Mille-feuille and was then treated to a Demo of the vanilla strawberry version.

The mille-feuille ( "thousand leaves") vanilla custard slice, also known as the 'Napoleon' is a pastry of French origin. Traditionally, a mille-feuille is made up of three layers of puff  pastry(pâte feuilletée), alternating with two layers of pastry cream (crème pâtissière), but sometimes whipped cream or jam are substituted. The top pastry layer is dusted with  confectioner's sugar  and sometimes cocoa, or pulverized seeds (e.g. roasted almonds). Alternately, the top is glazed with icing or fondant in alternating white  (icing) and  brown  (chocolate)  stripes  and combed to get the effect of lines or striations.

The pastry sheets ready to be worked on

Piping the vanilla cream

Since Paul has strict standards, the basic pastry sheets for the Mille-feuille reach the Muscat restaurant as frozen sheets and every morning when he comes in, Chef Mohammed takes out the required quantity and thaws them till they are at the right temperature. After making the vanilla or as the case may be, the chocolate cream, he starts piping it, neatly but very firmly, around the outer edges and works his way inwards, till the entire sheet is neatly covered.

Beautifully set and Chef starts to top with fresh strawberries

Working patiently, Chef Mohammed  covers the entire surface with the beautifully sliced fresh strawberries and then adds a light glaze to the finished product that goes a long way in adding to the appeal. Reminding me that we all eat with our eyes first, he pops the tray into the refrigerator for about 20 mins to give it a chance to set.

Exactly twenty minutes later, the alarm goes off and he gently takes the tray out and neatly slices the set pastry- a Vanilla Strawberry Mille-feuille into 24 portions and voila, a great new batch is ready!


Sometime later, the Mille-feuille make their way to the front of the shop where customers feast their eyes, before placing their orders for their goodies or best of all, sit down for coffee,  chat and a strawberry Mille-feuille with a friend!
 

Lastıng Impressıons and Food For Thought on Istanbul

Looking through my blog entries on my first visit to Istanbul a few years ago, these are some excerpts that caught my eye and these are also what I'm choosing to share with you. 

Looking out of my hotel window

"Approachıng the last leg of thıs trıp whıch I wıll be ıllustratıng wıth lots and lots of photographs as soon as I upload them, these are some of the lastıng ımpressıons of my fırst vısıt to Turkey, wıth my mınd clearly made up to come here again,some tıme ın the future.

The people here are just wonderful ,arm frıendly and extremely hospıtable. And really do care about you beıng a vısıtor to theır country.In fact, they are extremely concerned that you really should see the best of what Istanbul has to offer. Whıch to my mınd ıs plenty!

Some great street food, bread which tastes fabulous!

The hıstory of thıs place-just too much to take ın! And here I am -a student of Hıstory-I actually found all my hıstorıcal and other flıghts of fantasy comıng true.

Istanbul ıs Constantınople, the most ancıent place ın the cradle of well developed cıvılızatıon. A place where fırst the Romans then the Byzantıne rulers followed by the Ottomans/Othmans came to power and boy,dıd they have some power! All evıdent wherever you look...

A Priceless vase made of a single slab of marble inside the Hagya Sofia

And today we met Mustafa an Ottoman Turk, just outsıde Hagya Sofıa. I dont know what ıt was that propelled hım to come across and talk to us but he dıd and what a wealth of ınformatıon we gleaned from hım!(I'm goıng to need a whole new blog entry for thıs story.)

Mustafa and Avi outside the Hagya Sofia

And at the end of that meetıng we learnt quıte sımply and baldly from hım that he was dyıng of pancreatıc cancer."Dua Karo mere lıye" were hıs last words as we saıd goodbye and he went ınto the mosque for hıs mıdday prayer leavıng me thınkıng that thıs was the most calm acceptance of lıfe and death that I've seen ın recent tımes, coming from a man who had been told that he had two years (at the most to lıve.) Of whıch, one was almost up.

Sometimes, I think of him and I can't help but wonder if.... 

Rocky Road,a universal favourite and the simplest way to make it...

'All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn't hurt', said Charles M Schultz and I couldn't agree with him more! Topping a bar of chocolate would be a chocolate dessert or a slice of gooey chocolate cake.But you can easily have something in between and that something is the famous 'Rocky Road' a cross between chocolate, dessert , chocolate cake and everything else. 

My version, best served with an Espresso/Cappuccino

Historically, Rocky Road was invented in Australia in 1853 as a way of on-selling confectionery spoiled by the long journey from Europe. Gold miners in towns outside of Melbourne, such as Ballarat, were wealthy but uncultured. Cunning businessmen took advantage of these men, mixing the spoiled confectionery with low quality chocolate and other 'filler' ingredients, such as locally foraged nuts. The name Rocky Road is derived from the 'Rocky Road' travelers had to take to get to the gold fields.

That version of Rocky Road has come a very long way since and it has now developed into a fine art form, and is sometimes served in upmarket restaurants worldwide as a specialty dessert for people who will pay hundreds of dollars for it.

The main ingredients  in traditional Australian Rocky Road are marshmallows, dark or white milk chocolate,jelly,desiccated coconut,glace cherries,nuts, particularly peanuts,Turkish delight and strawberry sauce.

A minor variation is the American Rocky road and its main ingredients are marshmallows,milk chocolate,walnuts or almonds.The most popular version of Rocky Road in the U.S. is in ice cream form, which consists of chocolate ice cream, marshmallows (or sometimes a "marshmallow swirl"), and nuts. 

Here is my very simple and quick version of Rocky Road which will not take you more than  hour, which includes the preparation as well as the baking time.

All the ingredients neatly lined up 

Ingredients

4 bars of dark dessert/cooking chocolate

Half a bag of large white marshmallows

Vanilla essence to taste

Half a packet of small, dried figs

Half a pack of strawberries

Grated coconut to taste- I used about 500 gms for this entire batch

Peanuts to taste.

 Break chocolate into bits

 Melt over a pan of hot water, stir

 Mix all the ingredients into melted chocolate and stir gently

Pour the  mix on a greased baking tray and cover with grated coconut.

Bake at 150 c for about 25-30 mins or until done.

Cut into squares or shape into balls. Refrigerate till ready to serve and then bring out to the table. 

These are eaten best accompanied by an Espresso/Cappuccino  and if you want an added dash of fun, top with add a dollop of whipped cream/ice cream.